The journal
The Hilal Journal
Places, markets, villages and the small things nobody tells you about the coast between Agadir and Imsouane. Written from the two houses.
9 stories · 7 guides · two houses
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Souk El Had: a first-timer’s guide to the biggest market in Morocco
Thirteen hectares, a dozen gates, several thousand stalls and half of Agadir doing its shopping. Souk El Had is not a show for visitors; it is the city’s pantry, and that is exactly why it is worth a morning.
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Markets · 3 min readSouk El Had: a first-timer’s guide to the biggest market in MoroccoA first visit to Souk El Had in Agadir: which days it opens, which gate to use, what to buy and pay, how to bargain, and how to get there from Taghazout.
Places · 3 min readAgadir beyond the beach: the kasbah, the marina, birds, crocodiles and an ibisSeven places in and around Agadir worth the drive: the kasbah by cable car, the marina, the Vallée des Oiseaux, Crocoparc and the Souss-Massa park.
Villages · 3 min readTaghazout: the village behind the waveTaghazout from the inside: the fishing village north of Agadir that became Morocco’s surf capital, its beaches and points, where to eat, how to get around.
Villages · 3 min readTamraght: the quiet village between two beachesTamraght, the quiet village between Aourir and Taghazout: Devil’s Rock and Crocro, the Banana Village next door, cafés, the skatepark, buses, prices.
Food · 3 min readWhere to eat in Tamraght and Taghazout: the authentic tables, and the ones nobody tells you aboutThe cafés, grills and kitchens of Tamraght and Taghazout as locals use them: tagines at Café Taliouine, 10-dirham sandwiches at Kamal, tea at Zawya.
Markets · 2 min readInezgane and Dcheira: the Tuesday souk and the towns where Agadir really shopsSouth of Agadir, Inezgane and Dcheira are working towns with the region’s biggest everyday markets: the Tuesday souk, Souk El Houria, silver and produce.
Places · 2 min readAït Melloul: the Souss at work, and the road to the airportAït Melloul, the town of 210,000 on the Souss river that every traveller to Agadir crosses from the airport: citrus, greenhouses, the river, where to stop.
Day trips · 2 min readImsouane: the longest wave on the coast, one hour northA day trip to Imsouane from Taghazout: the Bay, one of the longest rights in Africa, Cathedral Point, the harbour, when to go, and lunch on the beach.
Places · 2 min readNine places around Tamraght and Taghazout that nobody tells you aboutThe quiet beach, the skatepark not on any map, the Wednesday souk, the lighthouse, the bread ovens: nine places near Tamraght and Taghazout the guides skip.The guides
Seven experiences, explained.
What each one is, how the day goes, what it costs, and how it works from the two houses.
- 01SurfSurfing in Taghazout and Tamraght
- 02YogaYoga on the rooftops of Tamraght and Taghazout
- 03QuadQuad rides between the beach and the argan hills
- 04Paradise ValleyParadise Valley: palm gorges and natural pools an hour inland
- 05Souk El HadAgadir and Souk El Had: the biggest market in Morocco, with a guide
- 06The dunesThe Timlaline dunes at sunset: sand, ocean and a board
- 07HammamThe hammam: the Moroccan bath, explained
Photo credits: Sir James, CC BY 3.0 · Abdeaitali, CC BY-SA 4.0 · Roy Egloff, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons). The other photographs are ours, taken from the two houses and on the road.
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